Microchipping ensures that if your dog is lost or stolen it can be easily identified – especially if its identification tag has fallen off. You can get your dog microchipped at your local veterinary clinic or enquire at your local council. Some local council’s will subsidise the cost of microchipping your dog, however this varies from region to region. There are standards that must be adhered to when the microchipping is done so it is important you check with your local council for a list of good operators.

The microchip itself is the size of a grain of rice and the cost of the operation varies (usually around $45 – $80). It is inserted usually just behind the shoulders using a needle. The procedure usually only takes a few seconds and is not too different from a vaccination. The chip has a unique number to your dogs information and is stored on a national database, which means it can be scanned anywhere in New Zealand and be recognised. Most SPCA and pounds hold scanners so if your dog gets away from your home it can be quickly identified and returned.

Microchipping usually only has to be done once in your dog’s life and ensures that if your dog needs to be identified then it has a permanent way.

We get caught up in the huge learning curve of training a dog, getting it micro chipped, learning the local council rules of registration and learning generally about how to look after a dog. We don’t think about calling the local pet insurer when we bring our new puppy home for the first time and finding out how to get your dog covered.

So what is Pet insurance?

It usually covers your vet bill when you Dog gets ill or injured in an accident and can also cover you if your dog gets lost or stolen or dies.

Why is this important?

When we get a dog we don’t think about it getting sick or ill. Trips to the vet are usually a common occurrence, especially when they are younger. We take our dogs to the vet usually for there routine check and vaccination and the cost of this is fairly modest. What we usually don’t expect is those accidents which occur during the year and leave us with good size vet bills. Normally we have no issues paying what it takes to get our dog fixed up; however it can leave you slightly bitter. Pet insurance helps to cover these costs with a wide range of plans which cover your pets for difference situations. You can get some of the cost of getting your dog fixed and also vaccinations covered or just have it for accidents. Prices vary according to the plan you choose. The benefit I see with Pet insurance is that it covers you for accidents which can give us peace of mind knowing that you aren’t worrying about the huge vet bill. During the time you have a dog it will most likely at some point get ill and it’s rare not to take your dog to the vet a couple of times a year.

A Few things to think about:

It’s important you do your research and look at various companies to find a plan which suits your situation. Costs vary according to the cover you get – usually the more covered your dog, the more it will cost. Pet insurance will usually cover a dog up until a certain age, once a dog reaches that age they will either refuse to cover them or up their premiums. You need to make sure you get a specific diagnosis of your dog’s illness as they can reject claims if it’s not well documented – usually this isn’t a major issue as you can normally just ring up your vet and they can give you all there notes.

Pet insurance won’t be for everyone however it’s well worth investigating as accidents and vet visits are usually a common occurrence when you own a dog.

The next is to discipline your dog. Often it’s here that we fail our dog and we can loose our temper or apply poor discipline technique. Disciplining your dog cannot be abusive, violent or stressful – these will lead to punishing your dog and ineffective training and possibly lead to behaviour issues.
Good discipline is:
- Consistent
- non-emotive
- non-violent
- Giving the dog rules / boundaries / limitations

Lastly, give your dog affection. You should only give your dog affection when it is in a calm state and only after you have used the first two steps to get it there. Often we are guilty of skipping the first two steps and jumping straight to affection, rewarding our dog when it’s not in a calm state. This leads to behavioural issues.

This can help to improve your dog’s state of mind and fix a lot of the behaviour issues we commonly see in dogs. Often these issues are a direct result of how we relate to our dog. So start implementing exercise, discipline and affection in your behaviour training now.

Buy Cesar’s Latest Book from Fish Pond:

The usual background to a scared / nervous dog is a series of events which put it into this state. For instance a common incident would be taking your dog for a walk and it sees another dog and either barks at it or stops and turns into a lead weight which you can’t move, often curling into a ball with its tail between its legs.

Common signs of a scared / nervous dog is barking, erratic behaviour, extreme wagging of the tail while moving around another dog, tail between the legs, growling, turning into a lead weight and not moving. Extreme cases your dog may even turn into a catatonic state, where its muscles get so ridged that it is virtually impossible to move it.

These days you can purchase some really good beds or with some simple materials you can make your own. When you look for a place to put your dog’s bed you need to think about a well ventilated area that’s not in the sun. It needs to be an area which can be cleaned easily and away from high foot traffic areas – so away from the front door.

The best dog beds I have found have a padded bottom are made from washable materials and have walls. The walls allow your dog to have an extra feeling of security and relax them more. Inside the dog bed I put a sheep skin, which I find they really love. If you don’t want to buy a dog bed you could also just use blankets and shape them into a bed. Often it can be a good idea to make the bed in the corner of a room so that they don’t have to worry about what’s behind them and have one way of entry.

The main reasoning behind a dog bed is that it’s a place your dog can go and feel this is its own space. It will help to create a well balanced dog and often can fix behavioral issues.

Brushing Dog Teeth

When I visited my local vet they showed me the large range of dog dental care and it wasn’t until then that I relised this wasn’t a joke. Checking my dog’s teeth I noticed straight away a dark brown colour at the top of his K9’s developing. This is a build up of plaque and tartar – now I’m starting to sound like the dentist. It’s true, animals do develop this on there teeth and often are made worse with diets which lack in bones. Raw brisket bones and dental chews will help clean the back of there teeth however it’s the front teeth and k9’s that often get this build up (if your dog doesn’t have raw bones or chew’s it’s most likely you will find a build up on the back teeth as well). If you do notice a build up of plaque and tartar you will need to get your local vet to remove this with a specialist dental tool (this should always be check when you take your dog to the vet for its routine check up). If your dog has really bad teeth then a detailed oral clean maybe required in which may be put under anesthetic. Once this has been removed you can then prevent this by brushing your dog’s teeth using a dog tooth paste and soft brush. There are some good brands out there which are flavored so your dog enjoys it.

If this build up is allowed to continue it can lead to preventable dental disorders such as periodontal disease and also affect the overall health of your dog. It’s a good routine to get into and you should start when your dog is young, that way they will get use to the brushing. If you have never heard of brushing your dog’s teeth and you own an older dog, then there is no better time to start than now. It will only improve your dog’s health and also there breath.

Your puppy will be fairly good at telling you when it needs to go and you need to be aware what those signs are.
- The may walk around sniffing
- They could whin
- Walk around in circles
- They become restless
- First thing in the morning and just before bed time
- After it drinks water
- After Dinner or any feeding times

Scenario
Time to take the dog for a walk.
We get up from our chair perhaps saying to the dog “walk time”, the dog responds by getting up and coming to life. We head to the bedroom putting on a coat or changing into more appropriate clothing for the walk. During this time we may make more eye contact with our dog and talk to it which leads it to bounce around and often this makes us happy because our dog is happy and can’t wait to go for a walk. So we only encourage this more and more cause we want our dogs to be happy. Usually the next thing is we start to head towards the door and if you come down stairs or walk down a hallway you will find your dog runs towards the door before you can even get there. We may at this time tell our dog to slow down or calm down. As we draw closer to the front door the dog may start to bark and spin around in circles in excitement. At this point we may get our dog to sit, even though it maybe shaking in excitement. We put the lead on our dog and pretty much as soon as the dog hears the click of the lead it stands up and heads straight at the door. It’s about this time that we start to get angrier and our first out-burst maybe here, where we yell at our dog and command it to sit. We open the door and as soon as it opens our dog leaps outside dragging us with them. This makes us even angrier so we pull the dog back to us and attempt to shut the door and maybe we yell out to someone inside that we’re are taking the dog for a walk. We start to head towards the road and all the way our dog is pulling us like a freight train, they may start to sniff a bush then mark it, giving us a little relief before they rocket to the next spot to mark or sniff. It can be quite embarrassing especially when people start to stare at us and watch as our dog drags us down the street. It’s around this time we may either loose it and yell at our dog or just accept that this is what our dog wants on its walk. Often on the walk we can hear the dog choking on the lead which makes us attempt to reason with the dog by telling it to wait or stop, when all this fails we let out more lead which allows it temporary relief before it charges ahead and continues to choke itself. The only way we stop the choking is by walking at its pace. By the time we get home the dog has slowed down and perhaps it may not be pulling much on the lead. That is till we reach our home. When we approach the door our dog starts to again pull at the lead and drag us to the front door. We then open the door and our dog charges in and we look exhausted and find the walk is not enjoyable, rather it’s a chore. From here we start to associate walks with negative thoughts and thus we start to become less incline to take our dog for a walk. It seems hopeless and all the tips our relatives and friends give us just don’t work well or only discourage us. So being a proactive person we start to look around for information on how to walk your dog properly. After googleing “how to stop your dog pulling on a lead” we have found this article. Or maybe you found this other ways – it’s not important. What’s important is that this issue is very common and with some simple tips and consistent training your dog will be walking properly on a lead.

Another issue which can arise is ear infections. Ear infections can be cause by many issues however they tend to arise when your dog’s immune system is low and a graze or minor irritant becomes infected. The infection thrives due to the dark, warm and moist environment inside the ear, especially with dogs with woolly coats. Yeast and bacterial growth will cause an odour in the ears and if the infection is found in only one ear you may find your dog tilts its head to one side attempting to equalise pressure. Common signs are that your dog is more irritable, the ears are warm to touch, possibly more tired and obvious signs such as redness inside the ear. The best treatment is to take your dog to the vet to get the ear checked out and if an infection has occurred then usually it will be fought with antibiotics, cleaning of the ear and also drops or a cream.

It’s important to check your dog’s ears for anything that may have found its way in there. They can range from plant material such as grass seeds or pollen, to sticks from off the beach or even cuts and grazes from rose bushes or black berry bushes. You should be able to check your dog’s ears with a flash light and a quick look inside, however it’s important that you don’t insert anything inside as this can damage the dog’s ear. If there is anything inside causing a problem you should take your dog to the vet to get a thorough check up and let them fix the issue. For a dog with quite a woolly inside ear it’s also possible that a knot can form from small debris inside the ear. If this occurs you should take your dog to the vet and get it removed as they can become infected.  

If your dog is treated with consistent flea and tick treatment then this shouldn’t normally be an issue, however if your dog is not treated they can effect your dogs ears. Ticks and fleas can bite inside your dog’s ears which can cause the bites to get infected or else your dog could have a flea or tick allergy which makes bites swell up and rashes occur. Even a bite outside of the ear can cause an allergic reaction which often shows up as redness inside the ears. The best treatment is to regularly use a flea and tick controller and also to make sure your dogs sleeping area is kept clean by regular vacuuming and also washing of bedding. Fleas usually only need to feed about once every 3months and the rest of the time they live inside small cracks of walls and where the wall meets the carpet or other places which are warm and dark. If an infection or major reaction occurs within the ear you need to take your dog to the vet and get appropriate treatment.

If your dog constantly scratches its ears then it’s possible that this can cause irritation that can make its ears swell up or bleed. Constant scratching is usually an irritation from possibly one of the above reasons. Scratching of the ear usually causes it to become more irritated and often can lead to other issues. Because dog’s claws can harvest bacteria, cuts caused by scratching can become infected. If un-left then your dog will most likely continue with this scratching and often will only get worse. It is normal however for your dog to scratch its ears every so often however if they do get obsessed then it’s important to address this issue.

If your dog does have woolly ears it’s often been a common suggestion to pluck your dogs ears to keep them hair free. Plucking is a personal choice and some people believe it’s a must while others believe it’s unnecessary. The reasoning behind plucking is to help to prevent issues such as knots and build up of junk. However plucking can also cause infections when the plucked area opens a wound and also some dogs are very sensitive in this area and plucking can cause a lot of stress. It’s possible as well that the hair inside the ear is an important part of protecting the inner ear. If your dog doesn’t have any major ear issues then plucking is probably unnecessary, however if health issues arise from excessive hair inside the ear then you maybe advised to look at plucking some hair. Often all that is required is trimming the fur inside the ear and keeping the ears clean. Vets will be the best to advise you if there are some major issues when they do there health check ups.